Pests & Diseases

Rutherglen bugs breed on inland weeds and swarm into gardens in hot, dry spells. Netting, weed control and steady watering protect the plants that matter.

The red and black harlequin bug clusters on soft fruit and new growth and shelters in weedy mallow. Hand-picking and a tidy-up keep it down without spraying.

The bronze orange bug clusters on citrus and squirts a caustic spray that can burn skin and eyes. Here is how to remove it safely and protect your tree.

Citrus leaf miner leaves silvery squiggly trails in new citrus leaves, but on an established tree it is largely cosmetic. Here is when to act and when to leave it be.

Carrot fly is not established in Australia, so damaged carrots here are usually something else. Here is what actually spoils Australian carrots, and how to prevent it.

Pea weevil larvae develop hidden inside pea seeds, so the sign is a round hole in a dried pea. Freezing your saved seed is the practical control.

Slaters are mostly beneficial decomposers that only turn pest when numbers explode and they graze soft seedlings. Here is how to keep the balance.

Most millipedes are harmless decomposers, but the introduced Portuguese millipede swarms into homes in autumn. Here is how to manage it without harming the helpful ones.

The green vegetable bug is a shield-shaped stink bug that dimples beans and tomatoes and reeks when handled. Hand-picking and protecting its natural enemies keep it down.

Garden weevils feed at night, leaving scalloped notches on leaf edges, while their grubs chew roots out of sight. Because they cannot fly, barriers work well.

Fungus gnats are the small dark flies over damp potting mix, and it is their larvae that stall seedlings. Letting the mix dry is the single most effective fix.

Cutworms hide in the soil by day and fell young seedlings at ground level overnight. A simple collar is the single best defence.