How to Grow Rosella in Australia

Where do you garden?
Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Perth, Geelong, Newcastle, most of coastal southern Australia

Rosella needs full sun, rich free-draining soil and five to six warm, frost-free months. Sow seed 10 to 12 mm deep into soil of at least 20°C, early in your zone's window. Space plants 50 to 60 cm apart. Water deeply, go easy on nitrogen and pick the fleshy red calyces when plump and 2 to 3 cm across.

PositionFull sun
Sowing depth10 to 12 mm
Spacing50 to 60 cm
First pick13 to 26 weeks from sowing
Sowing months, Temperate highlightedSow from October
Cool
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Temperate
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Subtropical
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Tropical
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Arid
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How to Grow Rosella in Australia
At a glance
SunFull sun
WaterRegular deep watering under straw mulch
SoilRich, free-draining, pH 5.5 to 6.8
FeedMedium; light on nitrogen, potash from flowering
Spacing50 to 60 cm
Depth10 to 12 mm
Germination5 to 21 days in soil above 20°C
Harvest13 to 26 weeks from sowing
ContainerOne plant per 45 L pot
FrostFrost tender; needs five to six warm months
UseJam, jelly, cordial, tea and cooked young leaves

Rosella (Hibiscus sabdariffa) is a frost-tender annual in the mallow family, Malvaceae. It is grown for the fleshy red calyces that swell around each seed pod after the flower falls. Queensland once made rosella jam in factories for export, and the tart calyces still set a jam without added pectin. The mistake most gardeners make is sowing too late.

Three mistakes that matter

  1. Sowing late or into cold soil. Rosella flowers as the days shorten after midsummer, whatever the sowing date. A late sowing reaches that point as a small plant and, in southern gardens, meets the cold before its calyces ripen. Sow at the start of your window.
  2. Picking calyces too late. Calyces left on the bush turn tough and stringy, and a plant left to ripen its seed stops flowering sooner. Pick them plump, while they still snap off by hand, as Harvesting Calyces describes.
  3. Planting into heavy, wet soil. Root rot strikes in poorly drained ground: plants grow well, then suddenly wilt as if dry, and nothing saves them. Plant into a raised bed or build up the soil with compost first.

When to plant

Soil warmth sets the date. Seed needs soil of at least 20°C and comes up best above 25°C. The plant then needs five to six warm, frost-free months to ripen a crop. Sow once: a single planting keeps cropping for months, until the cold arrives.

Zone Example cities Sow Harvest Notes
Tropical Darwin, Katherine NT; Cairns, Townsville QLD; Broome WA Oct-Dec Mar-Jul Sow in the build-up; use raised beds against wet-season waterlogging, and pick into the early dry season.
Subtropical Brisbane, Bundaberg, Rockhampton QLD; Coffs Harbour, Lismore NSW Sep-Dec Mar-Jun Flowering starts as days shorten, often from January around Brisbane; pick until the first cold snap.
Arid and semi-arid Alice Springs NT; Broken Hill, Dubbo NSW; Mildura VIC; Kalgoorlie WA Sep-Dec Mar-May Start pots under cover in September, plant out after the last frost and water deeply under mulch.
Temperate Sydney, Newcastle, Wollongong NSW; Melbourne, Geelong VIC Oct-Nov Mar-May Start seed under cover in October; Sydney and the NSW coast suit best, and Melbourne crops are uncertain.
Mediterranean Perth, Bunbury WA; Adelaide and the SA coast Oct-Nov Mar-May Grow over the warm season from seed started under cover; water deeply under mulch through the dry summer.
Cool and alpine Canberra ACT; Hobart, Launceston TAS; Orange, Armidale NSW; Ballarat VIC Not recommended Not recommended Too few warm, frost-free months for calyces to ripen outdoors; the young leaves are still worth picking.

At the early edge of a window, raise seed indoors on a seedling heat mat and plant out once the soil warms. Past the end of it, wait for the next season.

Site, soil and setup

Get the bed right What to do
Sun Full sun all day; rosella does not tolerate shade
Drainage Free-draining soil only; on heavy or low ground, plant into a raised bed
Soil Rich in organic matter; dig in a 5 cm layer of compost, or 5 to 10 cm of well-rotted cow or horse manure 4 to 6 weeks before planting
pH 5.5 to 6.8; test first, and on acid soil add dolomite lime or garden lime at 100 to 200 g per square metre, 4 weeks before planting
Base feed Pelletised chicken manure at 100 g per square metre, mixed in at planting
Mulch Straw once plants are in, kept topped up to hold moisture

Rotate beds so rosella does not follow the root-knot nematode hosts named under Companion planting, because that pest is its main enemy.

A pale rosella flower with a dark red eye open on a red stem, with young calyces above
Each pale flower lasts less than a day, then the red calyx beneath it swells around the seed pod.

Container growing

Rosella grows in a pot but needs a large one, because it reaches 1.5 to 2 m in a season. Grow one plant per pot of at least 45 L and about 40 cm across, with drainage holes. Fill it with a premium potting mix that meets the Australian Standard.

  • Water: push a finger into the mix daily in hot weather and water when the top few centimetres are dry. See watering pots in summer.
  • Feed: mix a controlled release granular for containers into the potting mix at planting, at the label rate. From first flowers, give fish and seaweed blend at 25 mL per 9 L fortnightly.
  • Position: full sun, in the warmest spot you have.

Sowing Seeds

Sow rosella direct where the soil is already warm, or raise it in pots under cover and plant out once the soil has warmed.

Starting in pots

  • Sow seed 10 to 12 mm deep in seed raising mix, in punnets or 10 cm pots.
  • Keep the mix moist and warm; seedlings usually appear in 5 to 21 days.
  • Plant out at 5 to 10 cm tall, usually 4 to 6 weeks after sowing.
  • Harden off (accustom seedlings to sun and wind outdoors) for about a week first.
  • Space plants 50 to 60 cm apart, in rows about 1 m apart, then water in and mulch.

Sowing direct

Once the soil holds 20°C, sow two or three seeds 10 to 12 mm deep at each spot, 50 to 60 cm apart. Keep the soil damp until seedlings appear, then thin each spot to the strongest one.

Care by growth stage

Regular deep water and a light hand with nitrogen decide the crop, because heavy nitrogen builds leaf at the expense of flowers. Weeks count from sowing and shift with zone and day length.

Stage Water Feed Watch for
Seedling, weeks 1 to 6 Keep the mix just moist, never soggy Nothing until the first true leaves, then seaweed solution at half strength, 15 mL per 9 L, fortnightly; or a controlled release granular (NPK around 14-5-10) at the label rate when planting out Stalled growth in cold mix; move pots somewhere warmer
Growing on, weeks 6 to 14 Water deeply, then let the surface dry a little; keep the straw mulch topped up Fish and seaweed blend at 25 mL per 9 L fortnightly; or an all-purpose soluble (NPK around 23-4-18) at half the label rate, fortnightly Aphids and mealybugs on shoot tips; holes from leaf-eating beetles
Flowering, as days shorten, often weeks 14 to 20 Regular and deep; dry spells slow flowering and calyx growth Sulphate of potash at 30 to 50 g per square metre once at first flowers, then liquid potash at the label rate fortnightly; or a fruiting and flowering soluble (NPK around 15-4-26) fortnightly, at the label rate Cotton harlequin bugs on young shoots; flower buds dropping
Picking, from about 3 weeks after first flowers Deep and even, with the mulch kept topped up Pelletised chicken manure at 100 g per square metre once, midway through picking, then fish and seaweed blend fortnightly; or the fruiting and flowering soluble fortnightly Powdery mildew on older leaves; calyces reaching 2 to 3 cm
Last flush, before the cold Reduce water for 3 to 7 days before the final big picking, without letting plants wilt Nothing The first cold nights; a few calyces left for seed

Companion planting

Rosella shares root-knot nematode with many summer vegetables, so what grows beside it, and after it, matters.

Grows well with

  • French marigold, planted through the bed, whose roots stop root-knot nematode completing its life cycle.
  • Onions, cabbage or sweet corn as the next crop in the bed, because they resist root-knot nematode.

Keep apart

  • Tomato, capsicum and eggplant, which host root-knot nematode and build it up in shared ground.
  • Beans, cucumber and pumpkin, other common root-knot nematode hosts.
  • Ornamental hibiscus and okra, mallow family relatives that host cotton harlequin bug.
  • Low, sun-loving crops on its southern side, which a 2 m rosella shades.

Harvesting Calyces

The first calyces are usually ready 3 to 6 months after sowing, about 3 weeks after each flower. Pick them when they are plump and 2 to 3 cm across.

  • Pick while calyces still snap off easily by hand, which is easiest in the morning.
  • Use secateurs on lower calyces whose stems have toughened.
  • Work up from the bottom of each branch, where calyces ripen first.
  • Pick regularly, starting with the first small flush: harvesting prompts new flower buds and lengthens the season.
  • Leave a few lower calyces to mature if you want seed, as Tips describes.
Fresh red rosella calyces in a wooden bowl and loose beside it
Freshly picked rosella calyces: the red, fleshy part is the harvest.

To prepare them, cut around the tough base of each calyx and push out the green seed capsule. Fine hairs on the capsule can end up in jam or cordial, so strain anything cooked with the capsules through fine cloth.

Freeze calyces for later jam and sauces. To dry them, spread them on trays somewhere warm and out of direct sun, or use a low oven or fruit dryer. Keep dried calyces in a clean, dry glass jar in a dark cupboard. Cook them into jam, jelly, cordial and sauces, boil dried calyces for tea, and cook the tart young leaves like spinach.

Common problems

Seed slow to come up. Cold soil is the usual cause, so move pots somewhere warmer or wait for the soil warmth set out in When to plant. Read more

A big green bush with no flowers. Rosella is a short-day plant that holds its flowers until the days shorten, often from about January around Brisbane. A bush that stays leafy well into autumn has usually had too much nitrogen, so switch to the potash feeds in Care by growth stage.

Flowers but no ripe calyces. In cool southern gardens, cold nights can arrive before the calyces fill, as Three mistakes explains. Treat the young leaves as the harvest if the calyces fail.

Seedlings come up everywhere. Rosella is naturalised across northern Australia and is listed as an environmental weed in Western Australia and the Northern Territory. Pull plants out once picking ends and gather every seed pod, so no seed reaches bushland or creeks.

Pests and diseases

Rosella has few serious pests, and before any spray, check that its label names the crop or situation.

Root-knot nematode (Meloidogyne species). These microscopic soil worms cause lumpy galls on the roots, and plants yellow, stunt and wilt, often at flowering. Do not plant where the pest is known, and bag and bin affected plants rather than composting them. Read more

Mealybugs (family Pseudococcidae). These small sap-suckers, covered in white powder, cluster along stems and leaf veins and leave honeydew that grows sooty mould. Wipe them off or spray insecticidal soap, and keep ants off the plants. Read more

Aphids (family Aphididae). Soft green or yellow sap-suckers crowd onto new shoots and flower buds and distort the growth. Squash small colonies or hose them off with a strong jet of water. Read more

Cotton harlequin bug (Tectocoris diophthalmus). Found in eastern Australia, this shield bug feeds on young shoots of the mallow family and can make flower buds drop early. Pick adults and young bugs off by hand.

Leaf-eating beetles (Nisotra breweri and others). Several beetles in Australia chew the leaves of rosella. Light damage rarely affects the calyx harvest, so tolerate a few holes.

Powdery mildew (Oidium species). White, powdery patches spread over the leaves where air is still. Water at the roots early in the day, and spray 1 part full-cream milk to 10 parts water in the morning. Read more

Prevention first

  • Check shoot tips, buds and leaf undersides weekly for sap-suckers and bugs.
  • Keep ants off plants, because they guard aphids and mealybugs from predators.
  • Rotate beds and keep the soil rich in compost and mulch, which root-knot nematode dislikes.
  • Spare the bees: if you must use pyrethrum, spray late in the day, away from open flowers.

Tips

  1. Pinch out the tips of young plants for bushier growth and more flowering shoots. In the subtropics, keep tip pruning until January.
  2. Plant three or four in a row as a summer screen, which shelters the patch from hot northerly or westerly winds.
  3. For seed, let a few lower calyces dry on the bush until the pods turn brown and split. Freeze the seed for 24 hours before storing it, which kills weevils.
  4. Pick a few flowers as well: each lasts less than a day, and dried flowers make a tea like the calyces.

Questions

When should I plant rosella seeds in Australia?

Sow once the soil holds at least 20°C. Tropical gardens sow October to December, and subtropical and arid gardens September to December, after any frost. Sydney, Melbourne, Perth and Adelaide gardens sow October to November, starting seed under cover. Cool and alpine gardens have too few warm months for a crop.

What part of the rosella plant do you eat?

The fleshy red calyx, the swollen cup that wraps the green seed pod after the flower falls. Cut around its base and push the pod out before cooking. The young leaves are edible cooked, with a tart, cranberry-like flavour, and the flowers can be dried for tea.

When are rosellas ready to pick?

About 3 weeks after each flower, when the calyx is plump and 2 to 3 cm across. Pick while it still snaps off easily by hand, working up from the lowest calyces. Older calyces turn tough and stringy.

Why is my rosella plant not flowering?

Rosella is a short-day plant, so it holds its flowers until the days shorten after midsummer, however big the bush grows. Around Brisbane, flowering often starts in January or February. A bush that stays leafy into autumn has usually had too much nitrogen, so switch to sulphate of potash or liquid potash.

Can you grow rosella in Melbourne or Canberra?

Melbourne is marginal and Canberra is not suited. Rosella needs five to six warm, frost-free months to ripen its calyces. In Melbourne, start seed under cover in October and plant out into the warmest spot. In Canberra and other frosty areas, cold usually returns before the calyces ripen.

Can I grow rosella in a pot?

Yes, one plant to a pot of at least 45 L and about 40 cm across, with drainage holes and premium potting mix. Keep it in full sun and check the water daily in hot weather, because a plant up to 2 m tall dries a pot quickly.

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