How to Grow Zephyranthes in Australia
Rain lilies are small bulbs that flower a few days after rain, mostly from late summer into autumn. Plant dormant bulbs 5 to 8 cm deep and 8 to 10 cm apart from late winter into spring, in full sun and free-draining soil. Let the soil dry between deep soakings and leave clumps undisturbed. Every part is poisonous if eaten.
| Sun | Full sun, afternoon shade inland |
|---|---|
| Water | Dry spell, then a deep soak |
| Soil | Free draining, slightly acid to neutral |
| Feed | Light: bone meal at planting, potash at flowering |
| Spacing | 8 to 10 cm |
| Depth | 5 to 8 cm |
| Germination | Grown from bulbs; fresh seed sprouts in weeks |
| Harvest | Summer to autumn, in flushes after rain |
| Container | Pot at least 25 cm wide, gritty mix |
| Frost | White takes light frost; pink is tender |
| Use | Edging, drifts, rockeries and shallow pots |
Rain lilies (Zephyranthes), also called zephyr lilies or storm lilies, are small bulbs in the family Amaryllidaceae. They are grown for starry, crocus-like flowers that open a few days after rain. They come from the Americas and suit Australian gardens with summer storms, from Brisbane to Sydney. A dry spell followed by a good soaking brings on the flowers, so beds kept wet all year often give leaves instead.
Three mistakes that matter
- Planting into cold, soggy ground. Dormant bulbs sitting in waterlogged soil through winter can rot. Choose a free-draining bed, or raise heavy clay and work in coarse grit before planting, as set out under Site, soil and setup.
- Too much shade. In deep shade the clumps grow thin, flower poorly and are more prone to pests. Give them full sun, or morning sun with afternoon shade in hot inland gardens.
- Splitting clumps too often. Rain lilies flower best as thick, undisturbed clumps, and single bulbs take longer to reach flowering size. Leave a planting for three to four years, then lift and replant in groups of three or more bulbs.
When to plant
Plant dormant bulbs from late winter into spring, once frosts have passed. Roots then settle before the summer and autumn rains. In frost-free gardens a second window opens in late summer. Potted clumps already in leaf can go in at any time of year if watered in well.
| Zone | Example cities | Plant | Flowering | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tropical | Darwin NT; Cairns, Townsville QLD; Broome WA | Aug-Oct | Nov-Apr | Plant late in the dry season. Wet-season storms bring flushes; raised beds stop bulbs rotting in monsoon rain. |
| Subtropical | Brisbane, Bundaberg, Rockhampton QLD; Coffs Harbour, Lismore NSW | Aug-Nov and Feb-Mar | Dec-May | The best-suited zone. Summer storms set off flushes; plant well away from bushland and creeks. |
| Arid and semi-arid | Alice Springs NT; Broken Hill, Dubbo NSW; Mildura VIC; Kalgoorlie WA | Sep-Nov | Jan-Apr | Give afternoon shade and mulch. A deep soak after a dry week stands in for rain. |
| Temperate | Sydney, Newcastle, Wollongong NSW; Melbourne, Geelong VIC | Aug-Nov | Jan-Apr | Reliable with sharp drainage. In Melbourne, choose white rain lily and a warm, sunny bed. |
| Mediterranean | Perth, Bunbury WA; Adelaide and the SA coast | Aug-Nov | Jan-Apr | Dry summers mean few rain triggers, so soak deeply after dry spells. Avoid beds that stay wet in winter. |
| Cool and alpine | Hobart, Launceston TAS; Canberra ACT; Ballarat VIC; Orange NSW | Oct-Nov | Feb-Apr | Marginal. Plant after the last frost in a warm spot, or grow in pots moved under cover for winter. |
Site, soil and setup
Drainage decides whether the bulbs last. Rain lilies take sand, loam or clay, but they rot where water lies around a dormant bulb in cold weather.
| Need | What to do |
|---|---|
| Sun | Full sun gives the most flowers. In very hot districts, afternoon shade stops the leaves dying back. |
| Soil | Moist, well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Most species dislike salt, so avoid beds exposed to salt spray. |
| pH | Slightly acid to neutral suits best, but acid soil is tolerated too, so lime is seldom needed. |
| Drainage | On heavy clay, plant on a raised bed or mound and mix in coarse grit to stop waterlogging. |
| Bed preparation | Dig in a 5 cm layer of compost a few weeks ahead. Rake in bone meal at 100 g per square metre at planting. |
A clump stays put for years, so rotation does not apply. Where water pools after rain, read waterlogged soil before planting.
Choosing a rain lily
Two species are widely grown in Australia, and they differ in colour and in how much cold they take.
| Rain lily | Flowers | Cold | Where it suits |
|---|---|---|---|
| White rain lily (Zephyranthes candida) | White, sometimes flushed pink outside, 4 to 5 cm across; late summer to autumn | The most cold-hardy species; takes light frost | Southern gardens as well as the subtropics; less often grown in the tropics |
| Pink rain lily (Zephyranthes carinata, often sold as Zephyranthes grandiflora) | Large, deep pink, up to 10 cm across; summer to autumn | Frost tender; leaves damaged by hard frost | Subtropical and tropical gardens; in cool districts, a pot moved under cover for winter |
Weed status, state by state
Both species have escaped from gardens in eastern Australia. White rain lily is recorded as naturalised in Queensland and New South Wales, and sparingly in Victoria. Pink rain lily is naturalised on the NSW north coast and in eastern Queensland. Neither is a declared weed in any state or territory.
| State or territory | What the weed lists say |
|---|---|
| Queensland | Not a prohibited or restricted invasive plant. The state wildlife database records white rain lily as naturalised and an environmental weed. |
| New South Wales | Not listed in NSW WeedWise. The state flora records both species as naturalised in places. |
| Victoria | Not on the declared noxious weeds list. The state advisory list names white rain lily an environmental weed, and it occasionally spreads from gardens into native habitat. |
| Western Australia | Listed as permitted (section 11) on the Western Australian Organism List, not declared. |
| South Australia | Not a declared plant. The State Herbarium holds one record of white rain lily by a creek at Clare, listed as questionably naturalised. |
| Tasmania | Not a declared weed. |
| Northern Territory | Not on the list of weeds in the NT. |
| Australian Capital Territory | Not a declared pest plant. |
Keep plantings away from bushland, creeks and drains, where seed and bulbs can spread.
Container growing
Rain lilies suit pots, and a wide, shallow bowl planted thickly makes a good show. Use a pot or bowl at least 25 cm wide and 15 cm deep, about 5 L, with drainage holes. Fill it with premium potting mix blended three parts to one with coarse grit, and set the bulbs one bulb width apart.
- Watering. Keep the mix moist, not wet, while in leaf, and water regularly in hot weather. See watering pots in summer.
- Feeding. Water in liquid potash at the label rate every fortnight from the first flowers until late autumn.
- Position. Full sun, with afternoon shade in hot districts. In cool zones, move the pot to a frost-free spot for winter and keep the mix barely moist.
Planting Bulbs
Start from bulbs or divided clumps; seed works too but takes longer to reach flowering size.
Choosing bulbs
Rain lily bulbs are small, from about 1 cm to more than 5 cm across depending on the species. Choose firm bulbs and discard any that are soft or mouldy. Potted clumps in leaf establish and flower faster than dormant bulbs.
Planting dormant bulbs
- Prepare the bed as under Site, soil and setup, and wear gloves, because the bulbs are poisonous.
- Set each bulb with its pointed tip upwards, 5 to 8 cm deep.
- Space bulbs 8 to 10 cm apart, in drifts of ten or more rather than single rows.
- Firm the soil and water in with seaweed solution at 30 mL per 9 L.
- Keep the soil just moist until leaves appear, then water as under Care by growth stage.
Dividing a clump
Lift a crowded clump with a fork as growth starts in late winter or spring. It falls apart into many small bulbs. Replant them in groups of three or more at the same depth, as in dividing perennials.
From seed
Seed pods ripen soon after flowering. Sow the shiny black seed fresh, because it loses viability quickly, on moist seed raising mix and cover it lightly. Seedlings usually emerge in two to six weeks and can flower within eight to twelve months in good conditions.
Care by growth stage
Water decides the display, though a hose never sets off flowers quite as well as rain. Feed lightly, because established clumps in fair soil need little.
| Stage | Water | Feed | Watch for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Newly planted, weeks 1 to 8 | Just moist, never soggy | Seaweed solution at 30 mL per 9 L every fortnight until leaves appear | Snails on the first shoots; rot in wet, cold soil |
| Leafy growth, spring to early summer | A deep soak each week in dry spells | None in fair soil; on poor sand, seaweed solution at 30 mL per 9 L every fortnight | Mealybugs at the leaf bases |
| Flushes of flowers, summer to autumn | Let the top few centimetres dry, then soak deeply; rain does this best | Sulphate of potash at 30 g per square metre, watered in once at the first flush | Slugs and snails on flowers; mites in hot, dry weather |
| After flowering, late autumn | Keep watering in dry spells while leaves stay green | Top up compost mulch to 5 cm | Seed pods forming, if you want to stop spread |
| Winter | Rain is usually enough; keep pots barely moist | None | Leaves dying back in cold or dry weather, which is normal |
If growth stalls in poor sand, a light dose of all-purpose controlled release granular (NPK around 14-5-10) scratched in each spring can help.
Companion planting
The grassy leaves stay low, so pair rain lilies with plants that will not smother them.
Grows well with
- Mondo grass and liriope, whose similar leaves hide the bulbs between flushes.
- Star jasmine and other low groundcovers that leave the flowers room to rise.
- Other bulbs, because the rain lily foliage sets off their flowers.
Keep apart
- Vegetable beds, because the leaves can be mistaken for leek or garlic chives.
- Dense, tall perennials and shrubs, whose shade cuts flowering.
- Lawns that are fed and mown short; bulbs naturalised in grass need the mower set high and no lawn feed.
Harvesting Blooms
Each flower lasts only a day or two, so enjoy most of them in the garden. Cut a few as buds show colour for a small vase or a posy.
- Cut in the cool of early morning, at the base of the stem.
- Pick off faded flowers at the base to stop seed setting and spreading.
- Keep cut stems and bulbs away from children and pets.
Stand cut stems in clean water straight away. Lifted or newly bought bulbs keep for a short time in a cool, dry, airy place, but plant them as soon as you can. Every part of the plant, bulb included, contains lycorine and related alkaloids. Eaten, they can cause vomiting, diarrhoea and convulsions, so rain lilies are grown for ornament only.
Common problems
Leaves but no flowers. Soil kept wet with no dry spell is a common cause; otherwise check Three mistakes that matter.
Soft, rotting bulbs. Cold, waterlogged soil through winter; replant sound bulbs in a raised or gritty bed.
Leaves dying down in summer. A long dry spell sends rain lilies dormant, and they regrow after rain.
Scorched leaves in extreme heat. Hot afternoon sun can burn the foliage and cut flowering, so give hot clumps afternoon shade.
Seedlings popping up away from the clump. Seed has ripened and spread, so remove faded flowers before pods form.
Pests and diseases
Few pests trouble rain lilies, because the alkaloids in the leaves and bulbs deter most chewing insects.
Garden snail (Cornu aspersum). Snails, and slugs with them, chew the leaves and can destroy the flowers. Hunt them at dusk after rain and use an iron-based bait if needed. Read more
Mealybugs (Pseudococcidae). White, waxy sap-suckers that cluster at leaf bases, mostly on clumps that are stressed by shade, dryness or poor drainage. Wipe them off and spray insecticidal soap. Read more
Spider mites (Tetranychidae). Worst in hot, dry weather, they turn leaves yellow or bronzed and spin fine webbing. Hose the leaves and spray insecticidal soap in the evening. Read more
Lily caterpillar (Spodoptera picta). A native pest of the amaryllis family in Queensland, New South Wales and the Northern Territory, also called the storm lily caterpillar. Pale grey caterpillars with black stripes feed in groups on the leaves, then bore down into the bulb. Pick them off by hand as soon as they are seen.
Prevention first
- After summer rain, check under the leaves for the hairy egg masses of lily caterpillar.
- Clear dead leaves and litter where snails shelter.
- Water deeply in long dry spells, which keeps mites down.
- Check new bulbs and potted clumps for mealybugs before planting.
Tips
- Mark where the bulbs are planted, because dormant clumps vanish and are easily dug through.
- Collect seed for new plants as the pods turn yellow and begin to split, rather than letting it scatter.
- Where winters are hard, mulch the bed heavily, or lift the bulbs before frost and store them cool and dry until spring.
Due to quarantine restrictions and our shipping policy, we cannot send Zephyranthes bulbs to Western Australia or Tasmania.
Questions
Why do rain lilies flower after rain?
Rain lilies grow in regions with seasonal rain and flower in flushes a few days after a soaking, usually from summer into autumn. Watering can set off flowers too, though less reliably than rain. A dry spell followed by a deep soak gives the best imitation.
Are rain lily bulbs poisonous to children and pets?
Yes. Every part of the plant, bulb included, contains lycorine and related alkaloids. Eaten, they can cause vomiting, diarrhoea and convulsions in people and animals. Wear gloves when planting, keep bulbs away from children and pets, and seek medical or veterinary advice if any part is eaten.
Are rain lilies a weed in Australia?
They are not a declared weed in any state or territory. White rain lily is naturalised in Queensland and New South Wales, and Queensland and Victoria list it as an environmental weed. Plant away from bushland and creeks, and remove faded flowers before seed spreads.
When should I plant rain lily bulbs?
Plant dormant bulbs from late winter into spring, after frost, so roots settle before the summer and autumn rains. Frost-free gardens can also plant in late summer. Potted clumps in leaf can go in at any time if watered in well.
How deep do you plant rain lily bulbs?
Plant them 5 to 8 cm deep and 8 to 10 cm apart, pointed tip upwards, in free-draining soil. Group them in drifts of ten or more for the best display.
Why is my rain lily not flowering?
The usual causes are too much shade, soil kept wet with no dry spell, or a clump divided too often. Dormant bulbs also settle and flower more slowly than potted clumps. Give full sun, let the soil dry between soakings and leave clumps undisturbed for several years.
More bulbs and tubers to sow in October
All bulbs and tubersCalla Lily
Grow coloured calla lilies from tubers: planting depth and timing for six zones, water and feeding, lifting and storing, pests, toxicity and the arum lily weed.
| Position | Full sun, hot-afternoon shade |
|---|---|
| Depth | 10 cm, rough side up |
| Spacing | 20 to 30 cm |
| First pick | 7 to 12 weeks from planting |
Canna Lily
Grow dwarf canna lilies from rhizomes: planting depth and timing for six zones, feeding for flowers, cutting back, dividing, pests, and the weed lists by state.
| Position | Full sun |
|---|---|
| Depth | 5 to 10 cm, eyes up |
| Spacing | 50 to 70 cm |
| First pick | 6 to 8 weeks from shooting |
Crinum
Grow crinum lilies in Australia: plant bulbs with the neck above the soil, where to site them, care through flowering, lily caterpillar control and toxicity.
| Position | Full sun to part shade |
|---|---|
| Depth | Neck just above soil |
| Spacing | 40 to 60 cm |
| First pick | Nov to Apr flowers |

Gladioli
Grow gladioli from corms in Australia: planting depth and timing for six zones, staking, feeding, cutting, lifting and storing, pests and the wild weed species.
| Position | Full sun, sheltered from wind |
|---|---|
| Depth | 10 to 15 cm, flat side down |
| Spacing | 10 to 15 cm |
| First pick | 13 to 17 weeks from planting |
