How to Grow Impatiens in Australia
Sow impatiens in trays at 22 to 24°C: press busy Lizzie seed onto the surface, and cover balsam seed no deeper than 6 mm. Seedlings appear in 7 to 21 days. After the last frost, plant busy Lizzie 25 to 30 cm apart in shade. Plant balsam 30 to 35 cm apart in sun or part shade. Flowers follow about 8 to 12 weeks from sowing.

| Sun | Busy Lizzie shade; balsam sun |
|---|---|
| Water | Evenly moist, never waterlogged |
| Soil | Moist, humus-rich, free-draining, slightly acidic to neutral |
| Feed | Light; compost at planting, seaweed solution fortnightly |
| Spacing | 25 to 35 cm |
| Depth | Surface; balsam 6 mm |
| Germination | 7 to 21 days at 22 to 24°C |
| Harvest | Flowers 8 to 12 weeks |
| Container | Pots of 10 L or more |
| Frost | Frost tender; plant out after last frost |
| Use | Shade beds, pots, hanging baskets, borders |
Impatiens covers two frost-tender plants of the balsam family, Balsaminaceae, both grown as annuals: busy Lizzie (Impatiens walleriana) and garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina). Busy Lizzie is grown for flat flowers that keep coming in shade, and balsam for cup-shaped blooms in sun or part shade. Their ripe seed pods burst at a touch, which gives the genus its name. Most failures happen in the seed tray, because busy Lizzie seed needs light and real warmth to come up.
Three mistakes that matter
- Burying busy Lizzie seed. The seed needs light to germinate, so seed covered with mix, or kept much below 22°C, often never comes up. Press it onto the surface of a warm tray, as set out in Sowing Seeds.
- Hot afternoon sun on busy Lizzie. Too much sun scorches the leaves, and plants wilt quickly in hot, dry spells. Give busy Lizzie bright shade or morning sun, and keep the sunnier spots for balsam (see Site, soil and setup).
- Planting out too early. Both species are frost tender, and soft seedlings set out into cold nights stall or die. Harden them off and plant out once the last frost has passed, around Melbourne Cup weekend in Melbourne and cooler districts.
When to plant
Warmth decides it: both species germinate at 22 to 24°C. Southern gardeners start trays indoors or on a seedling heat mat weeks before the weather warms. Busy Lizzie is slow, with about 9 to 12 weeks in trays and pots before planting out, and balsam is quicker.
| Zone | Example cities | Sow | Flowering | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tropical | Darwin NT; Cairns, Townsville QLD; Broome WA | Mar-Aug | Jun-Nov | Sow through the dry season in part shade; wet-season heat and soaking rain are hard on the soft stems. |
| Subtropical | Brisbane, Gold Coast, Bundaberg QLD; Coffs Harbour, Lismore NSW | Aug-Mar | Nov-Jun | Busy Lizzie can be sown most months in shade; give midsummer sowings afternoon shade and steady water. |
| Arid and semi-arid | Alice Springs NT; Broken Hill, Dubbo NSW; Mildura VIC; Kalgoorlie WA | Aug-Oct | Nov-Apr | Start trays under cover; plant out after the last frost, with mulch and shade from hot afternoon sun. |
| Temperate | Sydney, Newcastle, Wollongong NSW; Melbourne VIC | Aug-Dec | Nov-May | Start August trays indoors on a heat mat; Melbourne plants out once frost has passed, around Melbourne Cup weekend. |
| Mediterranean | Perth, Bunbury WA; Adelaide SA | Aug-Nov | Nov-Apr | Dry heat arrives early, so give busy Lizzie afternoon shade, mulch and steady water from planting. |
| Cool and alpine | Hobart TAS; Canberra ACT; Ballarat VIC; Armidale NSW | Sep-Nov | Dec-Apr | Sow under cover and plant out after the last frost; the first autumn frosts end flowering. |
Where a window opens before the last frost, keep seedlings under cover until it passes. Late sowings in the south flower for only a few weeks before cold nights stop them.
Site, soil and setup
Busy Lizzie does best in part to full shade, and copes with some sun only where the soil stays moist. Balsam wants full sun or part shade, with at least 3 hours of direct sun a day. Both need moist, free-draining soil rich in organic matter, slightly acidic to neutral.
| Where | What to do |
|---|---|
| Every bed | Dig in a 5 cm layer of compost with pelletised chicken manure at 100 g per square metre before planting. |
| Acid soil, below pH 6 | Dig in garden lime at 100 to 200 g per square metre, 4 weeks before planting. |
| Clay that stays wet | Build a raised bed or mound the rows, because the soft stems rot in soggy ground. |
| Near creeks or bushland | Grow busy Lizzie in pots instead, and deadhead so no seed escapes. |
Busy Lizzie has jumped garden fences in south-eastern Queensland and coastal New South Wales, and grows wild along creeks and forest edges there. Brisbane City Council lists it as pest vegetation, so check with your council before planting it. Do not replant impatiens where downy mildew struck (see Pests and diseases).
Container growing
Both varieties stay compact, about 25 to 30 cm tall, and suit pots, window boxes and hanging baskets. Choose a pot of at least 10 L with drainage holes, such as one 30 cm across, which holds about 13.5 L. Legionella bacteria live in bagged potting mix, so wear a mask and gloves when handling it and wash your hands afterwards.
- Watering: check pots daily in warm weather and soak them once the top few centimetres feel dry.
- Feeding: from the first flowers, water on fish and seaweed blend at 25 mL per 9 L each fortnight.
- Position: bright shade or morning sun for busy Lizzie; a sunnier spot for balsam, out of strong wind.
Sowing Seeds
Start both species in trays or punnets under cover, then transplant them, because the seed needs steady warmth that garden soil seldom gives.
Starting under cover
- Fill a clean tray with fine seed raising mix and water it well before sowing.
- Busy Lizzie: press the tiny seed onto the surface and leave it uncovered, as fine seed needs light.
- Balsam: cover the larger seed with fine mix, no deeper than 6 mm.
- Keep the mix at 22 to 24°C and damp, never wet; seedlings usually show in 7 to 10 days, balsam sometimes in 14 to 21.
- Move the tray off any heat mat once most seedlings are up, into strong light.
Growing on and planting out
- Pot each seedling into its own cell once its first true leaves open.
- Grow them on at 18 to 22°C by day and 16 to 18°C at night.
- Harden off the young plants (a week or two of lengthening daily spells outdoors, until they cope with sun and wind).
- Plant out at 5 to 10 cm tall, busy Lizzie 25 to 30 cm apart and balsam 30 to 35 cm apart.
- Settle each one in with half-strength seaweed solution, 15 mL per 9 L.
The two varieties differ in light and in how their seed is sown.
| Variety | Species | Light | Habit | Good to know |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 'Colour Parade' | Busy Lizzie | Part to full shade | Mounds 25 to 30 cm tall and wide | Branches well and fills pots quickly; seed sown on the surface |
| 'Tom Thumb Mixed' | Garden balsam | Full sun or part shade | Extra dwarf, 30 cm at most | Mixed colours; self-sows freely unless deadheaded |
Care by growth stage
Impatiens are light feeders, and steady moisture decides how well they flower. Mulch the bed with 5 cm of compost after planting to keep the roots cool and damp.
| Stage | Water | Feed | Watch for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Seedlings in trays (weeks 1 to 4) | Mist or water from below; never let the surface dry | None before true leaves; then half-strength seaweed solution (15 mL per 9 L) fortnightly | Seedlings falling over at soil level; long, pale stems |
| Potted on (weeks 4 to 12) | Evenly moist, never soggy | Worm casting liquid, weak tea colour, fortnightly | Aphids clustered on soft tips |
| First month in the bed | Water in, then keep the soil moist under the mulch | None where compost went in at planting | Leaves chewed overnight, with slime trails |
| Flowering (from about week 12) | Water at the base in the morning; moist, not waterlogged | Pots and poor soil only: fish and seaweed blend, 25 mL per 9 L, fortnightly | Yellowing leaves with white growth underneath |
| Heat and late season | Keep watering right to the end; give extra in hot, dry spells | Seaweed solution, 30 mL per 9 L, once a heatwave passes | Fine pale speckling on leaves in dry heat |
If growth stalls in poor soil, a light dose of all-purpose controlled release granular (NPK around 14-5-10) scratched into the soil can help.

Deadheading
Removing faded flowers and young pods stops seed forming, which keeps plants flowering and stops self-sown seedlings spreading.
- Balsam: every few days, snip each faded flower and swelling pod just above a leaf.
- Busy Lizzie: pick off spent flowers and any young pods as you water.
- Leggy busy Lizzie in late summer: cut the whole plant back by a third to bring on fresh flowers.
- Seed for next year: leave a few pods on the best balsam plants, as Harvesting Blooms describes.
Companion planting
Good partners share the steady moisture impatiens need.
Grows well with
- Violas: they like the same evenly moist soil and afternoon shade, and fill the bed through the cool months after impatiens finish.
- Marigolds: compact types manage part shade, so they suit a sunny edge beside balsam.
- Petunias: they take the full-sun end of a bed or basket, with balsam in the part shade.
Keep apart
- Lavender: the steady water impatiens need keeps its soil too wet.
- Thyme: it wants lean soil and dry roots, the opposite of an impatiens bed.
Harvesting Blooms
Balsam often flowers 8 to 12 weeks from sowing and busy Lizzie at about 12 weeks, and both keep flowering until frost. The main harvest after the flowers is balsam seed.
- Leave a few pods on the strongest balsam plants.
- Pick pods as they turn from green to yellow.
- Slip a paper bag over each pod before touching it, because ripe pods burst.
- Collect on a dry day and tip the seed onto a paper towel.
- Before autumn frost, take 10 to 15 cm busy Lizzie tip cuttings and root them in water.

Dry the seed on the paper towel overnight, then store it in a paper bag inside a labelled glass jar in a cool, dark place. Sow saved balsam seed the following spring, and keep rooted busy Lizzie cuttings as pot plants in a bright, frost-free spot through winter. Balsam is not a food plant, because its leaves hold calcium oxalate.
Common problems
Bare trays after sowing. Buried busy Lizzie seed or cold mix is the usual cause; the first of the Three mistakes that matter covers the fix. Read more
Seedlings topple overnight. Damping off (a stem rot of young seedlings, mostly from Pythium species and Rhizoctonia solani) strikes where mix stays wet. Read more
Long, pale, floppy seedlings. They are stretching for light, often because the tray stayed on the heat after the seedlings came up. Read more
Plants wilt every afternoon. Busy Lizzie in too much sun or drying soil flags in the heat; the second of the Three mistakes that matter covers the fix.
Stems soften and collapse at the base. Waterlogged soil rots the fleshy stems, so let the surface dry a little between waterings.
Pests and diseases
Downy mildew is the serious threat to busy Lizzie; the rest trouble most soft, leafy plants.
Impatiens downy mildew (Plasmopara obducens). Leaves turn pale, mottled and yellow, with white growth underneath, then drop until plants collapse. Pull and bin affected plants rather than composting them, and plant other flowers in that bed for at least a year. Read more
Two-spotted mite (Tetranychus urticae). Leaves show fine yellow stippling, and numbers climb fast in hot, dry weather. Hose the leaf undersides with a firm jet three mornings running, and keep plants well watered. Read more
Aphids (family Aphididae). These small sap-suckers gather on new shoots and under leaves, leaving sticky honeydew. Hose them off, or spray insecticidal soap. Read more
Garden snail (Cornu aspersum) and slugs. They chew seedlings and soft leaves at night, leaving silvery trails. Collect them by torchlight about two hours after sunset, and clear boards and debris where they shelter. Read more
Prevention first
- Sow in fresh seed raising mix in a scrubbed tray.
- Water at the base in the morning so leaves dry quickly.
- Keep the full spacing from Sowing Seeds for airflow.
- Check leaf undersides weekly once plants are flowering.
Tips
- Never tip old busy Lizzie plants or prunings into bushland or over the back fence: stem pieces take root and seed travels in water.
- Balsam is also called touch-me-not, and children love popping the ripe pods; it makes a good first flower for growing from seed with kids.
- Mix a few begonias into shady beds of busy Lizzie, because downy mildew attacks only impatiens and the begonias keep flowering if it strikes.
Questions
Can impatiens grow in full sun?
Balsam can: it grows in full sun or part shade, with at least 3 hours of direct sun a day. Busy Lizzie prefers part to full shade, because strong sun scorches its leaves and it wilts in hot, dry spells. Where it gets sun, keep the soil moist and choose a spot shaded in the afternoon.
Why are my impatiens seeds not germinating?
Busy Lizzie seed needs light and warmth. Press it onto the surface of damp seed raising mix without covering it, and keep the tray at 22 to 24°C. Seedlings usually appear in 7 to 10 days. Balsam seed is covered with no more than 6 mm of mix and can take 14 to 21 days.
What is the difference between busy Lizzie and balsam?
Both are impatiens. Busy Lizzie (Impatiens walleriana) forms low mounds of flat flowers and does best in shade. Garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina) carries cup-shaped flowers on upright stems and takes sun or part shade. Busy Lizzie seed is sown on the surface; balsam seed is covered lightly.
Why are my busy Lizzies turning yellow and dropping leaves?
Impatiens downy mildew is a likely cause if the leaf undersides show white growth. It has been found in Victoria, New South Wales and Queensland. Affected plants do not recover, so pull and bin them rather than composting them. Plant begonias or other flowers in that bed for at least a year.
Is busy Lizzie a weed in Australia?
It has escaped gardens and grows wild along creeks and in bushland in south-eastern Queensland and coastal New South Wales. Brisbane City Council lists it as pest vegetation. Check with your council before planting, deadhead near bushland, and never dump old plants or prunings there.
How do I save seed from balsam?
Leave a few pods on the best plants until they turn from green to yellow. Slip a paper bag over each pod before touching it, because ripe pods burst. Dry the seed on a paper towel overnight, then store it in a paper bag inside a labelled glass jar somewhere cool and dark.
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