How to Grow Parsley in Australia
Parsley is a biennial herb grown for its leaves, and in the Hamburg type for its root. Soak untreated seed overnight and sow 3 to 10 mm deep in rich, moist soil. Keep the surface damp for the 2 to 5 weeks it takes to appear. Thin to 20 to 30 cm, cut outer stems at the base from 10 to 12 weeks, and resow before plants flower.

| Sun | Full sun to part shade |
|---|---|
| Water | Evenly moist; every second morning unless still damp |
| Soil | Rich, moist, free-draining, pH 5.5 to 7 |
| Feed | Light; half-strength liquid feeds, fortnightly at most |
| Spacing | 20 to 30 cm |
| Depth | 3 to 10 mm |
| Germination | 2 to 5 weeks in 10 to 30°C soil |
| Harvest | 10 to 12 weeks |
| Container | Yes, 25 cm pot, about 8 L |
| Frost | Survives light frost |
| Use | Leaves and stems; Hamburg type for its root |
Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) is a herb in the carrot family, Apiaceae, grown for its leaves and, in the Hamburg type, for a parsnip-like root. It grows in every Australian climate zone, from a Darwin dry season to a Hobart summer, and one plant can be picked for months. Most failures start at sowing, because the seed is slow and gardeners give up on it.
Three mistakes that matter
- Letting the seedbed dry out. Parsley seed is slow to come up, and a surface that dries out during that wait can lose the whole sowing. Keep it moist until seedlings show, as Sowing Seeds describes.
- Picking from the top. A stem that loses its leafy tip does not reshoot, so tipping the plant leaves bare stalks. Cut whole outer stems at the base instead, as Harvesting Leaves describes.
- Keeping plants too long. Parsley is a biennial (it flowers in its second season), and once the flower stalk rises the leaves turn tough and bitter. Pull plants that keep flowering after their stalks are cut, and follow the timing in When to plant.
When to plant
Parsley seed germinates in soil from about 10°C to 30°C, and comes up slowly and unevenly in cold, wet ground. Most zones have a long window, so sow a second batch while older plants are still cropping, ready to take over when they flower.
| Zone | Example cities | Sow | Harvest | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tropical | Darwin, Katherine NT; Cairns, Townsville QLD; Broome WA | Apr-Aug | Jun-Dec | Sow through the dry season. Flat-leaf types hold up better if plants carry on into the wet. |
| Subtropical | Brisbane, Gold Coast, Sunshine Coast QLD; Coffs Harbour, Lismore NSW | Feb-May and Aug-Sep | May-Dec | Autumn sowings crop longest. Hot, wet summers bring root rot and leaf blight, so finish sowing by September. |
| Arid and semi-arid | Alice Springs NT; Broken Hill, Dubbo NSW; Mildura VIC; Kalgoorlie WA | Feb-May | May-Oct | Sow as the summer heat breaks so plants crop through the cool months. Mulch well against drying winds. |
| Temperate | Sydney, Newcastle, Wollongong NSW; Melbourne, Geelong VIC | Aug-May | Oct-Jul | Skip June and July, when cold, wet soil slows seed and invites root rot. Keep summer seedbeds moist. |
| Mediterranean | Perth, Bunbury WA; Adelaide and the SA coast | Mar-May and Jul-Dec | Jun-Mar | Perth gardens sow from March; the Adelaide plains favour July to December. Keep summer seedbeds mulched and moist. |
| Cool and alpine | Hobart, Launceston TAS; Canberra ACT; Ballarat VIC; Orange NSW | Sep-Mar | Dec-Jul | Established plants survive light frost. Late-summer sowings stand through winter and flower the following season. |
At the hot end of a window, sow where plants get some shade and check the seedbed daily. At the cold end, a light frost does little harm once plants are established.
Site, soil and setup
Choose a spot with at least three hours of sun, and more for flat-leaf types. Parsley likes rich, moist soil that still drains freely, because roots rot in soil that stays wet.
| Get the bed right | What to do |
|---|---|
| Sun | Full sun for flat-leaf types; curled types manage with about four hours |
| Soil | Rich and moisture-holding, with a 5 cm layer of compost dug in before sowing |
| pH | 5.5 to 7, ideally near neutral; below that, dolomite lime at 100 to 200 g per square metre, 4 weeks ahead |
| Drainage | Raise the bed where water lies after rain |
| Seedbed | Rake to a fine crumb; for Hamburg parsley, dig about 30 cm deep and remove stones |
| Rotation | Not where parsley or carrots grew in the last few years |
Container growing
Choose a pot at least 25 cm wide and 25 cm deep, which holds about 8 L. Fill it with quality potting mix and sow straight into it. Curled types such as 'Moss Curled' and 'Triple Curl' stay compact and suit pots best. Keep Hamburg parsley in a deep garden bed.
- Water: check the mix daily in warm weather and keep it evenly moist, because pots dry out fast.
- Feed: fish and seaweed blend at half strength, about 12 mL per 9 L, every fortnight.
- Position: at least three hours of sun, moved into shade during hot, sunny spells.
Sowing Seeds
Sow parsley where it will grow, or raise it in cells and plant out young, taking care of the taproot.
| Type | Varieties | What it changes |
|---|---|---|
| Flat-leaf (plain or Italian) | 'Plain', 'Verdant Plainleaf', 'Midori' | Stronger flavour and taller plants; wants full sun; copes better with wet weather but is more prone to leaf spot; self-sows freely |
| Curled | 'Moss Curled', 'Triple Curl' | Shorter, tightly curled plants for edges; takes part sun |
| Hamburg rooted | 'Hamburg Rooted' | White, parsnip-like root up to 25 cm long, ready in 85 to 95 days; deep, stone-free soil kept evenly moist, or roots fork; thin to about 15 cm; leaves usable as parsley |
Sowing direct
- Soak untreated seed in water overnight before sowing to help it along.
- Sow 3 to 10 mm deep in rows 30 cm apart.
- Keep the surface moist until seedlings appear, usually in 2 to 5 weeks.
- Thin to 20 to 30 cm apart, and add the thinnings to salads.

Starting in cells
- Sow two or three seeds per cell of seed raising mix, and keep the tray warm, bright and moist.
- Harden off (gradually accustom seedlings to sun and wind), as hardening off seedlings describes.
- Plant out at 5 to 10 cm tall, before roots circle the cell, without breaking the root ball.
Some seed, such as 'Midori', carries a fungicide coating and is for sowing only: never eat it or feed it to animals. Sow it dry, without the overnight soak, and read its packet first. Wear gloves to handle it, wash your hands afterwards, and keep it away from children and pets.
Care by growth stage
Steady moisture decides this crop. Dry soil sends parsley to seed and makes the leaves stringy and bitter, while leaves kept wet at night invite leaf spot.
| Stage | Water | Feed | Watch for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Germination, weeks 1 to 5 | Light watering to keep the surface moist, never soggy | None until the first true leaves open | Snails and slugs on emerging seedlings; damping off (seedlings rotting and collapsing at soil level) in wet, crowded rows |
| Seedlings, weeks 5 to 9 | Water every second morning unless the soil is still damp | Seaweed solution at half strength, 15 mL per 9 L, fortnightly | Weeds crowding young plants; thin on time |
| Leafy growth, weeks 9 to 12 | A short, heavy watering in the morning rather than a long, light one | Fish and seaweed blend at half strength, about 12 mL per 9 L, fortnightly if leaves pale | Aphids on new growth |
| Picking, from about week 12 | Same schedule, more often in hot or windy weather | Fish and seaweed blend at half strength, fortnightly if leaves pale after heavy picking | Leaf spots in humid weather; the first flower stalks |
| Second season | Keep watering until the last leaves are cut | None | A rising flower stalk |
Mulch with straw once seedlings stand 5 to 10 cm tall. Parsley in well-composted ground needs little feeding, so keep every feed at half strength. If growth stalls in poor soil, a light dose of all-purpose controlled release granular (NPK around 14-5-10) scratched in around the plants can help.

Pinching and Harvesting
Removing flower stalks holds off the end of the harvest for a while.
- Flower stalks: cut them out as soon as they appear, down at the base.
- Yellowing leaves: snip off lower leaves that turn yellow, which keeps the plant tidy and prompts new growth.
- Tired curled plants: cut the whole plant back hard; it can reshoot from its fleshy root for another six months or so.
- Flat-leaf in flower: leave one plant to seed, shake the heads where you want new plants, then pull it out.
Companion planting
Parsley left to flower draws lacewings, hoverflies and ladybirds, whose young feed on aphids and other sap suckers.
Grows well with
- Tomatoes, which gain from the aphid eaters that flowering parsley brings in.
- Chives, a slim, upright clump that leaves low parsley its light.

Keep apart
- Carrots and celery, which share parsley's diseases, aphids and viruses.
- Dill, another host of those aphids and the viruses they spread.
Harvesting Leaves
Start picking about 10 to 12 weeks after sowing, once the plant has a full ring of strong stalks.
- Cut outer stems right down at the base with scissors.
- Work from the outside in, leaving the young centre stems to grow on.
- Pick often: regular cutting keeps new leaves coming.
- Lift Hamburg roots with a fork from about 85 to 95 days, or leave them in the ground and dig as needed.

Wash picked leaves, let them drip dry and keep them in a plastic bag in the fridge. For longer storage, freeze chopped leaves in ice cube trays topped up with water. Dried parsley keeps, but it has much less flavour than fresh.
Use the leaves and stems in salads, sauces, casseroles and stews, and cook Hamburg roots as a vegetable.
Common problems
Seed fails to come up. Seed over a season or two old, seed sown too deep, a surface left to dry out or cold, wet soil are the usual causes. Read more
Plants flower in their first season. Dry soil makes parsley bolt (run to flower and seed) early, so the first remedy is steady watering, as Care by growth stage sets out.
Seedlings stall after planting out. Seedlings left too long in cells wrap their roots around the cell, and a damaged taproot sets plants back. Read more
Pests and diseases
Wet leaves spread parsley's leaf diseases, and wet soil brings on its root rots.
Septoria leaf spot (Septoria petroselini). The most common leaf disease of parsley in Australia, it makes small tan spots with dark red-brown edges and black dots. It spreads by splashing water on wet leaves. Pick off and bin spotted leaves as soon as they appear.
Alternaria leaf blight (Alternaria petroselini). Brown to black patches start at the leaf edges, then whole leaves yellow, brown and collapse. It thrives in hot, rainy, humid weather and has caused severe crop losses in Queensland. Pull out badly blighted plants and sow the next crop in a fresh bed.
Root rot and damping off (Pythium and Phytophthora species). Seedlings collapse, and older plants wilt fast over brown, spongy roots. It strikes in cold, wet winter soil in the south and warm, wet weather in Queensland. Pull out collapsed plants and ease off watering. Read more
Carrot aphid (Cavariella aegopodii). Recorded in New South Wales, Victoria, Tasmania and Western Australia, it feeds on parsley, carrots, dill and celery. Aphids also spread viruses that leave young leaves mottled and older leaflets twisted. Hose small colonies off with a sharp spray. Read more
Common garden snail (Cornu aspersum). Found in every state and territory away from the tropics and deserts, it eats parsley seedlings and soft leaves. Collect snails at dusk and after rain. Read more
Root-knot nematode (Meloidogyne hapla and M. incognita). These soil worms raise galls on the taproot, leaving plants stunted, yellow and wilting in the heat. Recorded on parsley in New South Wales and Queensland, they are worst in sandy soils like those of south-west Western Australia. Grow the next sowing in a different bed. Read more
Prevention first
- Water in the morning, at soil level where you can, so leaves dry before night.
- Space plants so air moves between them.
- Sow fresh seed from a reputable source, because leaf spot and leaf blight can travel on seed.
- Pull out old parsley and carrot-family weeds, which carry viruses to new plants.
Tips
- Sow a few radish seeds along a parsley row: they come up quickly and mark the row while the parsley is still hidden.
- Collect seed from curled parsley and sow it in trays, since curled types rarely self-sow.
- Pick only parsley you know you sowed. Hemlock (Conium maculatum), a highly toxic weed also called poison parsley, grows 1 to 2.5 m tall with purple-spotted stems and white flowers.
- Mitsuba, sold as Japanese wild parsley, is a different plant (Cryptotaenia japonica) with three-part leaves.
Questions
Why is my parsley seed taking so long to come up?
Parsley seed is slow: expect 2 to 5 weeks, and longer in cold, wet soil. Soak untreated seed overnight, sow 3 to 10 mm deep and keep the surface moist the whole time. A few radish seeds in the row come up quickly and mark where the parsley will appear.
When should I plant parsley in Australia?
Tropical gardens sow April to August and subtropical gardens February to May and August to September. Arid gardens sow February to May, temperate gardens August to May, and cool gardens September to March. Around Perth and Adelaide, sow March to May and July to December.
Can you grow parsley in a pot?
Yes. Use a pot at least 25 cm wide and deep, holding about 8 L of quality potting mix, and sow straight into it. Curled types such as 'Moss Curled' stay compact. Check the mix daily in warm weather, because dry parsley runs to seed.
How do you pick parsley so it keeps growing?
Cut whole outer stems right down at the base, working from the outside in, and leave the young centre stems to grow on. A stem cut from the top does not reshoot, so tipping the leaves only leaves bare stalks.
Is parsley an annual or a perennial?
Neither: it is a biennial. It makes leaves in its first season, then flowers and sets seed in its second, when the leaves turn tough and bitter. Most gardeners treat it as an annual and sow fresh plants each year.
What is the difference between flat-leaf and curly parsley?
Flat-leaf parsley has a stronger flavour, grows taller and self-sows freely, but is more prone to leaf spot. Curly parsley is shorter and more decorative, takes part sun and regrows when cut back hard. Both are grown the same way from seed.
More herb guides
All herbs
Agrimony
How to grow agrimony in Australia from seed: chilling the burrs, sowing months for six climate zones, sun and soil, cutting back, harvest, history and safety.
| Position | Full sun, light shade tolerated |
|---|---|
| Depth | 5 mm |
| Spacing | 30 cm apart |
| First pick | Summer; 12 to 18 weeks from spring sowing |

Angelica
How to grow angelica in Australia from seed: fresh or chilled seed sown on the surface, part shade, months for six climate zones, stems, history and safety.
| Position | Part shade, morning sun |
|---|---|
| Depth | Surface; press in, uncovered |
| Spacing | 50 to 90 cm |
| First pick | Stems at about 18 months |

Ashwagandha
Grow ashwagandha from seed in Australia: warm germination, sowing, site, care and root harvest, with its history and safety, for all six climate zones.
| Position | Full sun |
|---|---|
| Depth | 5 mm |
| Spacing | 45 to 60 cm apart |
| First pick | Roots 21 to 26 weeks |

Astragalus
How to grow astragalus (huang qi) in Australia from hard-coated seed: rubbing and soaking, sowing months for six zones, care, pests and lifting the taproot.
| Position | Full sun |
|---|---|
| Depth | 5 mm |
| Spacing | 20 to 45 cm apart |
| First pick | Roots after 2 to 3 years |






